It is 2pm here and already I feel like I've accomplished a fair number of things today. I have been up since 6:15am (which is a sleep-in!). A large part of this feeling of accomplishment is that I went to Mass this morning for two and a half hours, which is actually not too long given 'African time'. The music at church here is wonderful. The children sing, dance and play drums. It's really like no Catholic Mass I've ever experienced before!
Yesterday we went to Oshakati and watched some of the students with disabilities take part in a sports competition. There was a really great atmosphere at the stadium and apparently there were many more people there this year than last, so it's good that it's becoming more well-known. There are all kinds of events, but I would say the highlight for the kids is wheelchair basketball. There is also wheelchair racing, shotput, javelin and running. It's really amazing to see blind children taking part in a running race. I will post some photos soon.
This week was also a week for visiting traditional homesteads. Homesteads are the wooden enclosures that contain the traditional round huts where people live in the villages. Last weekend we went to the retirement party for the mother of a colleague. It was a 'cake party', which meant that they had bought one cake from Oshakati to give to the hundred or so people who attended. It was a big deal. They even managed to fit 60 candles on the cake! And of course, these weren't just any candles, these were the ones that keep lighting again after you blow them out. Mrs. Aukongo, the mother, asked her grandchildren to blow out the candles and soon everyone in the compound was laughing at the poor kids who didn't know what was going on when the candles lit up again and again.
Even though it was all in Oshiwambo, I felt engaged during all of the speeches because it felt so genuine and personal. It was amazing to see all of her family who attended. She is a 60 year old woman who has 8 children, of whom 5 already have their own families. She also has 11 brothers and sisters, and her mother, who must be in her 90s, was there too. The family all lined up together, in chronological order, sang some songs, and made sure to turn around every now and then so everyone sitting around the homestead could see them together!
We also went to pay a compassionate visit to the family of the headman of Pete's village because the headman died this week. He also happens to be the grandfather and namesake of Pete's principal, so his principal may just become the next headman. If he does, he can still work, but every weekend he must be available to hold traditional court in his homestead and listen to cases. When we entered the homestead, we had to shake the hands of everyone who was already there. Even though there must have been about 50 people already seated on the ground, we had to make sure we greeted everyone. I really like that, and it's just another reminder of the importance of community here.
Here are some observations from Pete about the visit:
"We were offered beer, soft drinks, goat meat, and oshifema (millet porridge). I thought it was strange that after someone died the family would feed everyone who visited. A colleauge told me the next day that this was part of the tradition of Owambo hospitality, but now that the death rate is so high it is causing problems because families are running out of money for things like the coffin or supporting orphans. The death rate is rising because of the AIDS epidemic. The headman was a very old man, which is a rarity these days. Most funerals are for young or middle aged people unfortunately."
